PAT BRUNO
The small island of Cyprus sits out there in the Mediterranean (south of Turkey), minding its own business. I liken it to Sardinia over in another part of the Mediterranean. And Cyprus, much like Sardinia, doesn't get a lot of notoriety in culinary circles. Undoubtedly, Greece (and Turkey to a certain degree) has a great influence on the cuisine of Cyprus (as Italy does on the cuisine of Sardinia).
That brings me to Venus Greek-Cypriot Cuisine, which by sheer definition of its name, and its placement in Greektown, leaves little doubt as to what is going on here. I had been meaning to get to Venus Greek-Cypriot Cuisine for months now and, after a couple of recent visits, I wish I had gotten there a lot sooner. I like this restaurant. The space is vibrant, open (high, loftlike ceiling), splashed with the bold colors so typical of a Mediterranean island restaurant, and just right for having a good time in a bit of laid-back luxury.
Also, the blending of Cypriot cuisine with that of its neighbor Greece adds a subtle yet different twist to the proceedings. In fact, the culinary deck at Venus is stacked with interesting dishes -- many of them typically Greek, some not, so it was a great deal of fun poking around the menu.
Right from the start, it was talatouri, which is the Cypriot version of tzatziki. You can call it a yogurt spread if you choose to, but when the flavor of mint, along with cucumber, gets blended into the yogurt, it takes the taste to another level.
Tirokafteri is an appetizer that jumps with flavor. Consider the blending of sharp feta cheese with roasted peppers, the whole of which is laced with tangy Greek olive oil, and you have a delicious spread for bread.
Traditional saganaki is on the hot appetizer list should you care to indulge. I suggest, however, that you skip over it and order "saganaki haloumi." Haloumi is a sheep's milk cheese that is popular in Cyprus and Turkey. The flavor is milder than the traditional cheese used for saganaki (kasseri), and I found that to be a nice change of taste.
Should you wish to experience haloumi in its natural state, order the "Aphrodite" salad, in which this flavorful cheese gets nestled into mixed greens with an oil and vinegar dressing and chunks of hardboiled eggs.
Venus offers many pasta dishes, but I skipped over them to the cod, which I find Greek restaurants do exactly how I like it -- lightly breaded and pan-fried, never dry, always flavorful. Add in the traditional accompaniments -- skordalia (aka garlic spread) and rice pilaf -- to round out the enjoyment.
One chicken dish sampled, chicken with oregano, was fine. The half chicken was baked, peppered with oregano and served with oven-roasted potatoes. Not the best chicken I have ever had in a Greek restaurant, but perfectly acceptable.
Pat Bruno is a local free-lance writer, critic and author. E-mail brunoeats@aol.com.
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