Chicago has its very first Cypriot Restaurant, and as you might expect, it’s in the Greektown neighborhood. Venus, at 820 West Jackson is just off Halsted.

Cypriot food is similar to Greek, but there are some distinctions. For one thing, the seasonings strike me as somewhat more subtle. The cuisine is multi-cultural, reflecting not only Greek, but Turkish and other Middle Eastern influences.

You’ll see a lot of menu similarities with the Greek restaurants right around the corner. But, there are some choices we have not seen elsewhere such as Afelia, which is braised pork with coriander marinated in red wine. In fact, pork shows up in several other offerings at Venus, and seems to be the meat of choice in Cypriot dining.

Lamb similarly gets suitable attention at Venus. One version, listed under house specialties is slow baked for six hours. The cooking results in moist, tender pieces of lamb with a seductive flavor enhanced by a collection of vegetables. Once in the oven, the lamb does not see the light of day again until the foil is unwrapped table side.

Among other signature dishes as they are called on the Venus menu, traditional Mousakas and Pastitso take their inspiration from the Greek mainland. From a list of main course selections, bacalao, or codfish is pan fried and served with a mild garlic spread and vegetables. Diners can begin with well more than a dozen appetizers; a combo plate brings several spreads and slices of pita on which to eat them.

In addition to the ala carte choices, Venus has two mezes, or all inclusive dinners which bring small portions of menu highlights. Greek desserts come from a nearby bakery. The wine list features some unusual, and reasonably priced Cypriot varieties. Expect to spend about $45 a couple, plus add ons. Venus is at 820 West Jackson and has a K/RATING of 18/20.